A still-drunk, middle-of-the-night kind of start to the weekend away in Copenhagen, alarm set for 4.45 am which was by no means a pain free way to start the weekend but it was all worth it for the time Cam and I shared in Denmark’s distinguished capital, Copenhagen.
As we settled into our room and took advantage of the impromptu early check in we enjoyed a much needed siesta, but soon enough we found ourselves braving the wintery weather outside.
It was the third time we’d had the pleasure of gracing this enchanting city with our presence and we made the most of it, wandering through the familiar streets and taking in the sense of freedom and ease that comes so naturally to the Scandinavian way of life. Copenhagen is fortunate enough to boast wide roads and generous walking space, and as we walked briskly along I noticed an ‘Anonymous’ rally crossing the road ahead of us, their path lit with flaming beacons and signs against the ‘new world order.’ Our rebel spirits reignited and feeling inspired, we walked towards them for a couple of blocks and were given fresh red roses as a sign of togetherness and love which definitely set the tone for the weekend.
We continued along to our destination- Torvehallerne, an indoor food and drinks market- home to a large array of homemade and organic foods, delicious coffees and cakes all within a stylish and truly Scandinavian interior.
I must pay homage to Laura’s bakery, the gem of Torvehallerne, a place that has very special place in my heart. The reason? The mother of all brownie’s- the ‘brownie mud pie.’ Anyone who sets foot in Torvehallerne and doesn’t taste this delicious offering from the heavens is missing out on pure, unadulterated chocolate utopia. The brownie mud pie, is reason alone to make the journey to Copenhagen.
Another Wintery day followed on Sunday, we couldn’t think of a better way to beat the Winter blues than to eat delicious street food and sip on some hot artisan coffee.
We meandered our way across the newly built bridge with many like minded folk to Papiroen, to find another of Copenhagen’s food markets.
It’s clear that the Danish know how to do a pretty damn good market. There are eye catching food stalls everywhere you look in Papiroen all tucked within colourful shipping containers twinkling their fairy lights at you, drawing you in. It felt like a warehouse rave but in the daytime, and for food. And much more civilised. Papiroen is Copenhagen’s answer to Winter. In true Scandinavian style, they have eased the strain of what is a harsh and long winter by creating a cool and quirky place to hang out in the city during the cold months.
There are all kinds of delicious food on offer from around the world- various Asian style cuisines, Spanish, American and of course Danish. You don’t want to turn up starving, if you’re anything like me, as you’ll be massively spoilt for choice and you may feel tempted to start chewing someone’s arm off in sheer anticipation.
What better way to warm up than with an Irish coffee!
I honestly couldn’t imagine a more perfect way to spend a Sunday; loved ones, delicious food and drink and vibrant conversation surrounded by the warm buzzy atmosphere of nationalities across the globe all gathered together to share the good things in life.
Next we ventured outside, much to my objection! Hey, there’s always room for one more Irish coffee in my book! But Cam was determined to make the first of our many pilgrimages to the commune town of Christiania before the light went.
It’s hard to express in words the magic of Christiania so I would strongly urge anyone in Copenhagen to make the effort to drop by and see for yourself just how fascinating and wildly fairytale esque this beautiful district really is. Having seen it in June, which is probably a preferable time of year to come, it still offers a huge amount of rugged charm during Winter. As we explored we really began to see how hygge has influenced the Danes! Inside side lights adorn every wall and there are candles glowing wherever you look luring you into the warmth. Outside is equally pretty with fairy lights colourfully dotted around and several fires lit up against an unmistakably earthy backdrop of trees and leaves in the wilderness.
We took many opportunities to warm up inside with hot chocolates, cheesecakes then, rather greedily, moved on to a delicious homemade salad bar that served up a tempting selection of hot and cold delights. Another thing I must mention is the Dane’s emphasis on good food, everything is fresh, healthy and tastes amazing!
Stepping outside we instantly felt the harsh Baltic winds and the natural drop in temperature as the sun dipped below the horizon, yet there was a wonderful element of mystery that came with this fading light.
That evening we went to a pizza and cocktail bar called ‘Neighbourhood’ in the stylish district of Copenhagen that we happened to be staying right next to. I must mention how costly the pizzas were, nearly £20 for one! We then reasoned that we are in Denmark after all and their hourly wage is almost double hours so you know, it figures. The pizza was very good- we were sharing so we went for potato and Brie, it was a rustic style, thin crispy base and whole sliced potato with rosemary and olive oil. Very yummy, very pricey. Worth it for food to fullness ratio? Probably not. Am I thinking that in this photo hence the distinct lack of smile? I would say so.
If your budget can stretch however, I would recommend it based on the chilled out vibes, friendly staff and high food standards. We didn’t go for a cocktail, opting for beer instead, but they looked good too.
Having heard from a stall seller earlier in the day about a Jazz night going on in Christiana that night, we were keen to check it out. We also heard you can smoke inside which was an added bonus. When we arrived, the night was in full swing, the jazzy tunes were back to back, with various singers taking to the stage. A couple of which, to our absolute amusement, got up from the audience to have a go and for whatever reason couldn’t get their mic working so proceeded to just stand there on stage for several minutes doing nothing, looking dumbfounded under the spotlight. To the audience’s embarrassed amusement this happened three times, and twice it was the same guy. Were they taking something we weren’t? The hilarity of it still makes me chuckle. Mishaps aside, if you’re a fan of jazz this night is well worth checking out. It’s super laid back but very popular- it was a struggle to squeeze in! The place had a very underground, speak easy vibe with a striking authenticity that will keep the soulful tunes buzzing around in my memory for a long time.
The next morning a little TLC was in order for our sore heads! Luckily we stumbled upon ‘Next Door Cafe,’ an adorably cosy cafe with an eclectic mix of memorabilia and various odds and ends which playfully decorated the walls and furniture.
Next Door Cafe’s speciality is pancakes. I went for the breakfast pancakes of the day which happened to be raspberry pancakes and accompanied with eggs and bacon with a lovely fragrant earl grey tea to go with it. You would have had to see my face at the time to get an idea about how well this went down! If you get a chance I would highly recommend it, staff are lovely and the pancakes seriously are to die for.
A quiet wander through the stunning botanical gardens which were still showing signs of autumnal splendour and soon time was nudging us to be on our way.
Sadly this magical weekend was at an end, and real life was beckoning us home. I did catch a glimpse of a beautiful sunset before we flew back to the motherland though, which officially marked this weekend in Copenhagen as one that I won’t ever forget and proves you don’t have to spend a long time somewhere to have a truly enchanting experience.